Fashioning the Body

Yet masculine fashion has been no stranger to these tortuous practices. Men flaunted their virility by artificially broadening their shoulders, applying padding to their chests, and slipping codpieces over their groins.

Fashioning the Body

Author: Denis Bruna

Publisher:

ISBN: 9780300204278

Page: 272

View: 923

A witty and stylish look into the mechanics employed by men and women to sculpt their figures for fashion

Fashioning the Body Politic

Fashion is often thought of as a matter of personal taste, completely unconnected with the public domain of political life and citizenship. This book reveals that fashion has played a significant role in political participation and protest.

Fashioning the Body Politic

Author: Wendy Parkins

Publisher: Berg Publishers

ISBN: 9781859735879

Page: 260

View: 242

Fashion is often thought of as a matter of personal taste, completely unconnected with the public domain of political life and citizenship. This book reveals that fashion has played a significant role in political participation and protest.

Appearance and Identity

This book casts a critical look at the dominant position that fashion has come to occupy in contemporary society.

Appearance and Identity

Author: L. Negrin

Publisher: Springer

ISBN: 0230617182

Page: 200

View: 878

This book casts a critical look at the dominant position that fashion has come to occupy in contemporary society. It addresses various aspects of fashion in postmodern culture including makeup, cosmetic surgery, tattoos, ornament in dress and the blurring of gender boundaries.

Fashioning the Frame

In answering the need to theorize dress, this book provides an overview of recent scholarship and presents an original theory of what dress means in relation to the body. Identity relies on boundaries to individuate the self.

Fashioning the Frame

Author: Dani Cavallaro

Publisher: Bloomsbury USA Academic

ISBN:

Page: 214

View: 979

The body has been the focus of much recent critical attention, but the clothed body less so. In answering the need to theorize dress, this book provides an overview of recent scholarship and presents an original theory of what dress means in relation to the body. Identity relies on boundaries to individuate the self. Dress challenges boundaries: it frames the body and serves both to distinguish and connect self and 'Other'. The authors argue that clothing is, then, both a boundary and not a boundary, that it is ambiguous and produces a complex relation between self and 'not self'. In examining the role of dress in social structures, the authors argue that clothing can be seen as both restricting and liberating individual and collective identity. In proposing that dress represents 'a deep surface,' a manifestation of the unconscious at work through apparently superficial phenomena, the book also questions the relationship between surface and depth and counters the notion of dress as disguise or concealment. The concept of the gaze and the role of gender are approached through a discussion of masks and veils. The authors argue that masks and veils paradoxically combine concealment and revelation, 'truth' and 'deception'. Here the body and dress are both seen as forms of absence, with dress concealing not the body, but the absence of the physical body.This provocative book is certain to become a landmark text for anyone interested in the intersection of dress, the body and critical theory.

Fashioning Gothic Bodies

This innovative book explores the role played by clothing in the discourses of the Gothic.

Fashioning Gothic Bodies

Author: Catherine Spooner

Publisher: Manchester University Press

ISBN: 9780719064012

Page: 224

View: 511

This innovative book explores the role played by clothing in the discourses of the Gothic. It makes an explicit connection between the veils, masks and disguises of Gothic convention, and historically-specific fashion discourses, from the revealing chemise-dress popularized by Queen Marie Antoinette to the subcultural style of contemporary Goths. In so doing it sheds new light on the cultural construction of Gothic bodies. Taking an original interdisciplinary approach, Catherine Spooner offers readings of literary, cinematic and popular cultural texts in the context of fashion from the 1790s to the 1990s. Progressing chronologically from the novels of Radcliffe and Lewis through the "sensation" fiction of the Victorian period and the Gothic fiction of the fin-de-siècle, Fashioning Gothic Bodies culminates with twentieth-century film and the supposed resurgence of the Gothic in pre-Millennial culture.

Fashioning the Frame

This groundbreaking work addresses important questions about the Algerian War of 1954-62 and the significant French resistance to their own leaders during the bitter conflict.

Fashioning the Frame

Author: Martin Evans

Publisher: Berg Publishers

ISBN: 9781859739860

Page: 214

View: 676

The body has been the focus of much recent critical attention, but the clothed body less so. In answering the need to theorize dress, this book provides an overview of recent scholarship and presents an original theory of what dress means in relation to the body. Identity relies on boundaries to individuate the self. Dress challenges boundaries: it frames the body and serves both to distinguish and connect self and 'Other'. The authors argue that clothing is, then, both a boundary and not a boundary, that it is ambiguous and produces a complex relation between self and 'not self'. In examining the role of dress in social structures, the authors argue that clothing can be seen as both restricting and liberating individual and collective identity. In proposing that dress represents 'a deep surface,' a manifestation of the unconscious at work through apparently superficial phenomena, the book also questions the relationship between surface and depth and counters the notion of dress as disguise or concealment. The concept of the gaze and the role of gender are approached through a discussion of masks and veils. The authors argue that masks and veils paradoxically combine concealment and revelation, 'truth' and 'deception'. Here the body and dress are both seen as forms of absence, with dress concealing not the body, but the absence of the physical body.This provocative book is certain to become a landmark text for anyone interested in the intersection of dress, the body and critical theory.

Body Shaping

Commentaries On Fashioning The Body Body Renovations What is striking is
how frequently the culture requires equivalents of ruthless attack on the body in
order to put it into proper shape. It may call for cutting off a piece of the penis or
the ...

Body Shaping

Author: Richard L. Sartore

Publisher: Nova Publishers

ISBN: 9781560722793

Page: 119

View: 668

The foremost objective of Body Shaping: Trends, Fashion and Rebellions is to be a helpful guide for individuals better understanding themselves. What we know about our bodies, and how we are influenced by beautification trends, is critical to a gratifying life. This book is for the millions of persons who are discontent with their looks. The focus is on both men and women who are similarly affected in a serious way. Appearance is a vital preoccupation in our culture and it can become an unhealthy obsession. Those who are secure with their bodies tend to be secure with life. That is why an understanding of body image over the years is key before any body modification can be fully successful.

Contesting Bodies and Nation in Canadian History

In this first collection on the history of the body in Canada, an interdisciplinary group of scholars explores the multiple ways the body has served as a site of contestation in Canadian history in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries.

Contesting Bodies and Nation in Canadian History

Author: Patrizia Gentile

Publisher: University of Toronto Press

ISBN: 1442613874

Page: 428

View: 837

In this first collection on the history of the body in Canada, an interdisciplinary group of scholars explores the multiple ways the body has served as a site of contestation in Canadian history in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries.

The Culture of Fashion

Breward's work provides the reader with a clear guide to the changes in style and taste and shows that clothes have always played a pivotal role in defining a sense of identity and society, especially when concerned with sexual and body ...

The Culture of Fashion

Author: Christopher Breward

Publisher: Manchester University Press

ISBN: 9780719041259

Page: 244

View: 803

This illustrated survey of 600 years of fashion investigates its cultural and social meaning from medieval Europe to twentieth-century America. Breward's work provides the reader with a clear guide to the changes in style and taste and shows that clothes have always played a pivotal role in defining a sense of identity and society, especially when concerned with sexual and body politics.

Fashioning Bollywood

Body. The difference between a costume designer and fashion designer? The
boutiques, they can just provide you with a salwar kurta, but not a good fit. For a
film you require to be perfect. If you have a defect on the shoulders, if you have a
 ...

Fashioning Bollywood

Author: Clare M. Wilkinson-Weber

Publisher: A&C Black

ISBN: 0857852965

Page: 192

View: 164

The Hindi film industry, among the most prolific in the world, has delighted audiences for decades with its colourful, exquisite and sometimes startling costumes. But are costumes more than just a source of pleasure? This book, the first in-depth exploration of Hindi film costume, contends that they are a unique source of knowledge about issues ranging from Indian taste and fashion to questions of identity, gender and work. Anthropological and film studies approaches combine to analyze costume as the outcome of production processes and as a cinematic device for conveying meaning. Chapters lead from the places where costume is planned and executed to explorations of characterization, the actor body, spectacles of fashion, to the imagining of historical or fantasy worlds through dress, to the power of stardom to launch clothing styles into the public domain. As well as charting the course of film costume as it parallels important trends in cultural history, the book considers the future of Hindi film costume, in the context of new strains of filmmaking that stress unvarnished realism. Fashioning Bollywood will appeal to students and scholars of Indian culture, anthropology and fashion, as well as anyone who has seen and enjoyed Hindi films.

Japanese Fashion Cultures

Llewyen Negrin, Appearance and Identity: Fashioning the Body in Postmodernity
(New York: Palgrave Macmillan, 2008), p. 30. Elizabeth Wilson, Adorned in
Dreams (London: Virago, 1985), p. 117. Vera Mackie, 'Transnational Bricolage: ...

Japanese Fashion Cultures

Author: Masafumi Monden

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

ISBN: 1472586727

Page: 216

View: 165

From Rococo to Edwardian fashions, Japanese street style has reinvented many western dress styles, reinterpreting and altering their meanings and messages in a different cultural and historical context. This wide ranging and original study reveals the complex exchange of styles and what they represent in Japan and beyond, contesting common perceptions of gender in Japanese dress and the notion that non-western fashions simply imitate western styles. Through case studies focussing on fashion image consumption in style tribes such as Kamikaze Girls, Lolita, Edwardian, Ivy Style, Victorian, Romantic and Kawaii, this ground-breaking book investigates the complexities of dress and gender and demonstrates the flexible nature of contemporary fashion and style exchange in a global context. Japanese Fashion Cultures will appeal to students and scholars of fashion, cultural studies, gender studies, media studies and related fields.

Fashioning Models

The aesthetic labour of modelling may involve all manner of bodily work— dieting
; working out; tanning or avoiding the sun to preserve one's complexion; looking
after one's skin, shaving, waxing, plucking body hair; paying regular trips to the ...

Fashioning Models

Author: Joanne Entwistle

Publisher: A&C Black

ISBN: 0857853112

Page: 224

View: 550

The fashion model's hold on popular consciousness is undeniable. How did models emerge as such powerful icons in modern consumer culture? This volume brings together cutting-edge articles on fashion models, examining modelling through race, class and gender, as well as its structure as an aesthetic marketplace within the global fashion economy. Essays include treatments of the history of fashion modelling, exploring how concerns about racial purity and the idealization of light skinned black women shaped the practice of modelling in its early years. Other essays examine how models have come to define femininity through consumer culture. While modelling's global nature is addressed throughout, chapters deal specifically with model markets in Australia and Tokyo, where nationalist concerns colour what is considered a pretty face. It also considers how models glamorize consumption through everyday activities, and neoliberal labour forms via reality TV. With commentaries from industry professionals who experienced the cultural juggernaut of the supermodels, the final essay situates their impact within the rise of brand culture and the globalization of fashion markets since 1990. Accessible and highly engaging, Fashioning Models is essential reading for students and scholars of fashion and related disciplines.

Fashioning Fat

As models of resistance against a negative cultural discourse surrounding the fat
body, these women expose their bodies of curves without shame. For those brief
moments, they emerge victorious, reclaim their femininity, and feel empowered.

Fashioning Fat

Author: Amanda M. Czerniawski

Publisher: NYU Press

ISBN: 0814770320

Page: 224

View: 533

For two and a half years, Amanda Czerniawski was a sociologist turned plus-size model. Journeying into a world where, as a size 10, she was not considered an average body type, but rather, for the fashion industry, “plus-sized,” Czerniawski studied the standards of work and image production in the plus-sized model industry. Fashioning Fat takes us through a model’s day-to-day activities, first at open calls at modeling agencies and then through the fashion shows and photo shoots. Czerniawski also interviewed 35 plus-size models about their lives in the world of fashion, bringing to life the strange contradictions of being an object of non-idealized beauty. Fashioning Fat shows us that the mission of many of these models is to challenge our standards of beauty that privilege the thin body; they show us that fat can be sexy. Many plus-size models do often succeed in overcoming years of self-loathing and shame over their bodies, yet, as Czerniawski shows, these women are not the ones in charge of beauty’s construction or dissemination. At the corporate level, the fashion industry perpetuates their objectification. Plus-size models must conform to an image created by fashion’s tastemakers, as their bodies must fit within narrowly defined parameters of size and shape—an experience not too different from that of straight-sized models. Ultimately, plus-size models find that they are still molding their bodies to fit an image instead of molding an image of beauty to fit their bodies. A much-needed behind-the-scenes look at this growing industry, Fashioning Fat is a fascinating, unique, and important contribution to our understanding of beauty. Instructor's Guide

Key Concepts for the Fashion Industry

Fashioning. the. body. In the same vein that fabric has been cut, folded,
manipulated, and decorated to create aesthetic effects so too has the body ... One
of the most common body fashions is to reshape its silhouette using
undergarments.

Key Concepts for the Fashion Industry

Author: Andrew Reilly

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

ISBN: 0857853678

Page: 152

View: 416

Key Concepts for the Fashion Industry is the first concise and accessible overview of fashion theories for students on any fashion course. Providing an easy understanding of the core concepts, from scarcity to conformity, this book offers clear, practical examples and accessible case studies, making complex theory easy to digest. All fashion students need a basic understanding of how a style becomes a fashion and how this spreads or declines, whether they are studying fashion design, merchandising or any other fashion course. Containing student-friendly features such as discussion questions, activities and further reading, this book is essential reading for all students studying across all areas of fashion.

Bodies and Texts

CHAPTER THREE LAURA ESQUIVEL: FASHIONING THE BODY AND THE
SELF This chapter examines the work of the Mexican writer Laura Esquivel,
concentrating principally on her first two novels,Como agua para chocolate:
novela de ...

Bodies and Texts

Author: Claire Taylor

Publisher: MHRA

ISBN: 1904350127

Page: 202

View: 295

Considers the novels of three Latin American writers, the Argentinian Griselda Gambaro, the Colombian Albalucia ngel, and the Mexican Laura Esquivel, and examines their work in relation to the formation of feminine identity.

Renaissance Self Fashioning

The queen's power was linked with fictions in a more technical sense as well: her
reign, according to Ernst Kantorowicz, witnessed the first major secular
elaboration of the mystical legal fiction of “the King's Two Bodies.” “I but one body
, ...

Renaissance Self Fashioning

Author: Stephen Greenblatt

Publisher: University of Chicago Press

ISBN: 022602704X

Page: 332

View: 276

Renaissance Self-Fashioning is a study of sixteenth-century life and literature that spawned a new era of scholarly inquiry. Stephen Greenblatt examines the structure of selfhood as evidenced in major literary figures of the English Renaissance—More, Tyndale, Wyatt, Spenser, Marlowe, and Shakespeare—and finds that in the early modern period new questions surrounding the nature of identity heavily influenced the literature of the era. Now a classic text in literary studies, Renaissance Self-Fashioning continues to be of interest to students of the Renaissance, English literature, and the new historicist tradition, and this new edition includes a preface by the author on the book's creation and influence. "No one who has read [Greenblatt's] accounts of More, Tyndale, Wyatt, and others can fail to be moved, as well as enlightened, by an interpretive mode which is as humane and sympathetic as it is analytical. These portraits are poignantly, subtly, and minutely rendered in a beautifully lucid prose alive in every sentence to the ambivalences and complexities of its subjects."—Harry Berger Jr., University of California, Santa Cruz

Fashioning Teenagers

The long-haired model Teenas of war-period body wear ads cut their hair and
changed their clothes, but their represented "lives” didn't change much.
Domesticity informed fashion, but didn't transform it—in part because the beauty/
romance ...

Fashioning Teenagers

Author: Kelley Massoni

Publisher: Left Coast Press

ISBN: 1611325072

Page: 256

View: 907

Founded in 1944 by Helen Valentine, Seventeen magazine was the first modern “teen magazine.” An immediate success, it became iconic in establishing the tastes and behaviors of successive generation of teen girls covering the last half of the 20th century. Kelley Massoni has written the first cultural history of the origins of Seventeen and its role in shaping the modern teen girl ideal. Using content analysis, interviews, letters, oral histories, and promotional materials, Massoni is able to show how Seventeen helped create the modern concept of “teenager.” The early Seventeen provided a generation of thinking young women with information on citizenship and clothing, politics and popularity, adult occupations and adolescent preoccupations, until economic and social forces converged to reshape the magazine toward teen consumerism. A chapter on the 21st century Seventeen brings the story to the present. Fashioning Teenagers will be of interest to students of popular culture, sociology, gender studies, mass media, journalism, business, and American studies.

Ziegfeld Girl

CHAPTER THREE Costume and Choreography : Fashioning a Body Given the
association of the chorus girl with consumable pleasures and even prostitution ,
Ziegfeld situated the Follies Girls at a more bourgeois intersection of the body
and ...

Ziegfeld Girl

Author: Linda Mizejewski

Publisher: Duke University Press

ISBN: 9780822323235

Page: 241

View: 556

A study of the iconographic significance of the Ziegfeld girl in twentieth-century American conceptions of sexuality, race, class, and consumerism.

Scenes from the Marriage of Louis XIV

CHAPTER 2 Fashioning the Body Politic As predicted by the almanacs , the
military battles of 1657 and 1658 did indeed result in the marriage of Louis XIV .
In the late fall of 1658 , after the king ' s convalescence , the French court went to
Lyon ...

Scenes from the Marriage of Louis XIV

Author: Abby E. Zanger

Publisher: Stanford University Press

ISBN: 9780804729772

Page: 244

View: 558

This book radically revises our understanding of the construction of symbolic power in the age of absolutism by examining the fictions that emerge from visual, narrative, and ceremonial representations of (and reactions to) the 1660 marriage of Louis XIV to the Spanish infanta. Drawing on semiotics, the history of theater and spectacle, gender studies, and anthropology, the author reconsiders the nature of representation in absolutist political culture. The book is not intended as a history of the marriage. Rather, the author analyzes in detail exemplary moments or scenes from the royal wedding, in particular uncovering the dialectic at the heart of nuptial fictions. Like the kinship exchange out of which they emerge, fictions of marriage manipulate antagonistic forces in the service of promoting the political culture of absolutism. The nuptial fiction portrays a king who though central, is not yet absolute, and who depends on images and representational forms to become visible. His perceived power relies on appendages such as the queen and forms like print, fireworks, and drama. A calculus of addition, this dependence is invisible from within the models previously used to explore the representation of sovereignty, models based on rituals of substitution like the funeral rite. Though the fictions generated during Louis XIV’s marriage are not the principal ones of his rule, they do affect the portrait of the king and provide insight into the making of an image scholars too frequently take for granted. Studying nuptial fictions invites us to reexamine clichés about the representation of absolutist power, generalizations that do not fully characterize the less monumental (but equally crucial) periods of Louis XIV’s kingship.

Self fashioning in Margaret Atwood s Fiction

CHAPTER FIVE Style and Text ( ile ) : A Conclusion Language is called the
Garment of Thought : however , it should rather be , Language is the Flesh -
Garment , the Body , of Thought . I said that Imagination wove this FleshGarment ;
and ...

Self fashioning in Margaret Atwood s Fiction

Author: Cynthia G. Kuhn

Publisher: Peter Lang

ISBN: 9780820467641

Page: 144

View: 798

This study examines the associations between dressing and storytelling in Margaret Atwood's fiction. As cultural representations operating within a network of codes, clothed bodies are often discussed by theorists as constructed performances or as fabricated texts, inextricably bound up with ideology and power. The clothed body often becomes a battleground in Atwood's fiction as female protagonists respond to divisive cultural scripts through self-fashioning. Furthermore, Atwood seems to collapse the opposition between the material and the spiritual through clothing, to consider dress a fitting metaphor for the space between the natural and the supernatural. While the connections among dress, body, and story are visible from Atwood's earliest novel forward, they achieve their most unified and powerful effect in The Robber Bride (1993) and Alias Grace (1996). In these novels, Atwood draws upon the classical idea that the body clothes the soul to create a postmodern frame for the complex relationships among subjectivity, representation, voice, gender, and culture.